Throughout the War with Mexico it was the practice of the U.S. Army, following major military engagements, to burythe dead in mass graves on or near the battlefield where they fell. Generally, this task was performed as quickly as possible for one very practical reason: the warm climate in which most of the war was fought hastened decomposition.

The bodies of soldiers who died later of their wounds, or from some other cause, were also buried promptly, usually near whichever building was serving as an army hospital at the time. In towns garrisoned by American troops for long periods, burials often took place beside an existing campo santo (cemetery). Rarely were U.S. soldiers interred within the boundaries of a Mexican graveyard. The reason? Nearly all Mexicans were Roman Catholics, whereas most American soldiers were Protestants. Mixing members of the two faiths together in the same cemetery was frowned upon by both.

Only a few bodies were shipped back to the U.S. for permanent burial. Since the U.S. government did not assume this responsibility during the Mexican War, most of these were officers whose families could afford the expense. If the deceased was particularly well-known, other prominent citizens of the community from which he came might contribute to the cost of transporting his body. In such cases, it was also not uncommon for a small group of these same persons to travel to Mexico, to arrange for the disinterment and to accompany the deceased on the journey back to the states. On at least one occasion, one of these delegates became ill while in Mexico and himself died during the trip back home.

Apart from the few whose remains were brought home, the graves of most Americans who died in Mexico during the war were left unmarked and untended. To this very day, the bones of many an American soldier lie buried in some lonely, forgotten spot, in places known only to the men who have long since joined their comrades in death.

There is one notable exception to this otherwise sad commentary on the way our government has generally failed to bestow upon Mexican War soldiers the same honor and dignity granted to soldiers of later wars. On September 28, 1850 Congress passed an act approving “the purchase of a cemetery near the city of Mexico, and the interment therein of the remains of the American officers and soldiers who fell in battle or otherwise died in or near the city of Mexico.” Consequently, on June 21, 1851 two acres of land adjacent to the English burying ground in Mexico City, was purchased from one Manuel Lopez for the sum of $3,000.

mxwOn July 21, 1852 Congress approved the appropriation of an additional $1,734.34 for “purchasing, walling, and ditching” the American cemetery in Mexico City.

By 1853, the bodies of some 750 U.S. soldiers were buried in the Mexico City National Cemetery. They were mostly the casualities of the battles that occurred in and near Mexico City in August and September 1847. Although a marker at the site suggests these men are “unknown soldiers,” that is not the case. The names of all these men were recorded in casualty lists compiled at the time of the war.

Between 1851 and 1924, when it was closed to further burials, 813 civilians who died in Mexico City were also interred in the American cemetery, along with several members of the U.S. military. Some of the civilians were veterans of the Mexican War, the Civil War (both Union and Confederate), Indian campaigns, and the Spanish-American War. Others were members of the U.S. diplomatic corps, or their families. The first non-Mexican War burial was of a man named Reuben Willhite, who died on November 20, 1851. The last interment, it appears, was of a U.S. Army hospital steward, Charles Knowlton Sams, who died December 14, 1923.On May 18, 1872, Congress appropriated $500 to reimburse the American consul for the cost of maintaining the “American Protestant Cemetery” for the past year and approved a salary of $1,105 for the cemetery keeper. A year later the American cemetery in Mexico City was declared a national cemetery, to be operated and maintained by the War Department. Finally, in 1947, President Harry S. Truman signed an executive order transferring responsibility for the cemetery from the War Department to the American Battle Monuments Commission. Today, in addition to the Mexico City National Cemetery, the Commission maintains twenty-three other U.S. cemeteries around the world.

The remains of all the people buried in the Mexico City National Cemetery lay undisturbed and relatively forgotten until 1976 when a highway called the Circuito Interior was constructed. At that time, the cemetery was reduced in size to a single acre. The civilian remains were exhumed and re-interred in crypts constructed at the east and west walls of the grounds by the Mexican government. Simultaneously, the remains of the 750 Mexican War soldiers were re-interred in two new vaults placed in the center of the south end of the grounds.

A small monument made of white stone stands at the far end of the cemetery, above the vaults holding the remains of the men who died there during the War with Mexico. There is a brief inscription in gold letters on the monument’s base. Presumably out of respect to the sensitivities of the Mexican people (or perhaps to prevent vandalism), it does not identify the men who are buried there as soldiers nor does it make it any reference to the war. It simply reads:

TO THE HONORED MEMORY
OF 750 AMERICANS
KNOWN BUT TO GOD
WHOSE BONES COLLECTED
BY THEIR COUNTRY’S ORDER
ARE HERE BURIED

More than 800 other people, mostly Americans, are interred in crypts in the wall on the sides of the cemetery. In 1923, the Mexico City National Cemetery was closed to further burials.

Today, the cemetery is a tiny oasis of calm and quiet in the heart of Mexico City. It is located behind high walls at Virginia Fabregas 31, Colonia San Rafael – almost at the intersection of San Cosmé and Melchor Ocampo. The Plaza de la Constitucíon, or Zocalo, is about 2½ miles to the east and the U.S. Embassy is about 1 mile south. Memorial Day services, usually attended by the U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, are held annually. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. When the cemetery is open, a staff member is on duty to answer questions and escort visitors to grave sites.

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Plaque commemorating the San PatriciosFrom behind the bullet-scarred walls of an ancient fortress, the wail of bagpipes and a thundering bass drum echoed through a plaza in the center of Mexico City.

Passers-by stopped in their tracks. Children craned for a look as a platoon of Mexican bagpipers marched through the gates in tribute to a strange and divisive chapter of Irish-American history.

The bagpipers play each month in honor of the St. Patrick Battalion, a group of 600 Irish-American soldiers who switched sides to fight for Mexico in the 1846-1848 Mexican-American War. Mexico lost half its territory to the United States as a result of the war.

To the United States, the deserters are traitors. But to Mexicans, the “Irish martyrs” are heroes, honored in street names, plaques and St. Patrick’s Day celebrations around the country. The battalion’s name is written in gold letters in the chamber of Mexico’s House of Representatives, and a ceremony is held in a Mexico City park every year to commemorate the executions of the group’s members.

“It’s a little bit of a weird twist on history . . . and quite romantic for the Irish community,” said Myles Doherty, the Irish consul in Mexico City.

Immigrants turned soldiers

The battalion’s story begins with Ireland’s Potato Famine of the 1840s, which forced thousands of Irish to emigrate to the United States and other countries.

In May 1846, the United States declared war on Mexico in a dispute over the boundaries of Texas. Many of the desperate Irish were recruited for the war, sometimes within days of landing in New York, said Carlos Mayer, a historian and expert on the battalion.

Most of the American commanders were Protestants, and they treated these Catholic immigrants badly, Mayer said. Mexico, meanwhile, was offering land and higher wages to its recruits. As the fighting wore on, some of the U.S. recruits began to grow restless.

“Many of them began to realize that Mexico was a fellow Catholic country that was being invaded and that was really defenseless in the face of the American military superiority,” he said. “So they began switching sides.”

The deserters were led by John Riley, an artilleryman who had previously fought in the British Army. They were joined by a few Swiss, French, Scottish and German recruits, most of them also Catholic.

Called los colorados, or “the redheads,” by their Mexican comrades, they fought against the Americans at the key battles of Monterrey, Buenavista and Cerro Gordo.

The Americans eventually reached the outskirts of Mexico City on Aug. 20, 1847. Mexican troops, with the remaining San Patricios handling the artillery, pounded the American forces from a monastery-turned-fort on the Churubusco River until they ran out of ammunition.

Thirty-five San Patricios died in the battle, 85 were captured and another 85 retreated with the remnants of the Mexican army.

On Sept. 13, 1847, the Americans seized Chapultepec Castle in the war’s last major battle.

San Patricios who had deserted before the war were branded with the letter “D” on one cheek. The rest were hanged, including 30 who were executed at the foot of Chapultepec Hill.

“They were hanged at the moment that the American flag was raised over the castle of Chapultepec so that they would take that sight to hell with them,” Mayer said.

Mexicans consider the war a blatant land grab by the United States, and the loss continues to haunt relations between the two countries today.

Awareness today

The former monastery of Churubusco, where the San Patricios were defeated, is now a national museum dedicated to the invasions Mexico has suffered. The bullet holes are still on the walls, and the cannons commanded by John Riley stand outside.

The first Sunday of every month, the St. Patrick Battalion Pipe Band plays in the soldiers’ honor. And on several weekends each year, an actor portraying Riley gives talks to schoolchildren and tourists. The San Patricios were seen much differently in the United States, even by fellow Irish immigrants, said Ian McGowan, archivist at the Institute for Irish-American Studies at the City University of New York.

“In the military particularly, there was a sense of shame,” McGowan said. “For a good 40 or 50 years they were almost completely forgotten about. The unofficial position of Irish who were looking to become Americans in the 19th century was not to discuss them.”

Recently, however, Americans have begun to pay more attention to the battalion. Historians have written a number of books about it in the past decade, McGowan said, and in 1999 MGM released a movie about Riley, One Man’s Hero.

Bernard Brennan, an Irish-American tourist from San Francisco, said he had become curious about the battalion after discussing it with a Mexican friend. On a recent afternoon, he snapped pictures of a carved stone plaque marking a Mexico City plaza where 16 of the Irish soldiers were hanged. The plaque reads: “In memory of the Irish soldiers of the heroic St. Patrick Battalion, who gave their lives for the cause of Mexico during the unjust American invasion of 1847.”

Brennan said he doesn’t see the soldiers as traitors.

“As an Irish-American, I’m proud of them,” he said. “Sometimes you have to stand up and say, ‘What my country is doing is wrong.’ I think they’re heroes, heroes of conscience.”

SSPDF put 1500 officers on the streets during Mexican farmers protest
Thousands of Mexican farmers, some riding tractors and herding cows, flooded the capital Thursday to demand government protection against cheap U.S. imports.Trade barriers under the North American Free Trade Agreement, or NAFTA, were lifted in January, opening Mexico for the first time to tariff-free U.S. exports of traditional food like corn and beans.

Mexican farmers complain the government of President Felipe Calderón is not doing enough to protect them against highly subsidized U.S. goods.

Protesters are demanding Mexico renegotiate the treaty with the United States to maintain protections for corn and beans.

Long lines of slow-moving tractors choked highways from rural areas toward Mexico City for a march toward the main Zocalo square in the city center.

“The free trade agreement is like an open wound for the Mexican countryside,” said Victor Suarez, who heads a small farmers’ group. “You can give the patient medical attention but if you don’t stop the hemorrhage first the patient will die.”

Since NAFTA took effect in 1994, corn tariffs have gradually been phased out and imports of U.S. yellow corn to Mexico, mostly used in animal feed, have soared. They now account for close to 35 percent of Mexican consumption.

Mexican farmers fear zero trade barriers will encourage highly mechanized U.S. farms to start producing white corn, which has been Mexico’s main crop since the Aztec times and is a staple food.

Opposition legislators who support the rural sector have called for the resignation of Agriculture Minister Alberto Cardenas for failing to do enough to support farmers.

In an effort to dampen criticism, Cardenas announced on Wednesday an expansion of cash supports to meat and egg producers to buy corn for animal feed, since international prices for the grain have skyrocketed in recent months.

Cardenas said the negative effects of the trade deal for corn and wheat growers will be offset by high international prices on increasing U.S. demand for ethanol.

“High prices are helping us bring thousands of Mexican farmers out of poverty. We have support programs for all the agricultural sectors in place,” Cardenas said.

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Mexico City Cathedral

A time capsule was found atop a bell tower at Mexico City’s Metropolitan Cathedral, where it was placed in 1791 to protect the building from harm, researchers said Tuesday.

The lead box – filled with religious artifacts, coins and parchments – was hidden in a hollow stone ball to mark the moment on May 14, 1791, when the building’s topmost stone was laid, 218 years after construction had begun.

Workers restoring the church found the box in October, inside the stone ball base of a cross that sits atop the 200-foot southern bell tower. Researchers spent the next three months opening the airtight box and preserving its contents.

Among them was a small case of wax blessed by the Pope that served to protect against mishaps, said Rev. Ruben Avila, rector of the cathedral.

Also inside was an engraving of Saint Barbara, a Roman Catholic martyr associated with lightning whose image served as “a religious lightning rod, to protect against damage,” said archaeologist Xavier Cortes, director of historic buildings for the National Council of the Arts and Culture.

The cathedral, like most church buildings in Mexico, is considered government property.

A perfectly preserved parchment listed the time capsule’s contents – including 23 medals, 5 coins, and five small crosses made of palm fronds – which it said were “for protection from the storms.”

Considering the cathedral’s history – it has been flooded, fought over and damaged as the soft soil it sits on sinks – the cathedral may need divine protection.

A new time capsule – with items from this year – will be placed into the stone ball when it is closed again, he said, without specifying what it would contain.

The cathedral was built on the swampy terrain of a former island and partially atop an Aztec pyramid.

Cathedral de Mexico CityMexico City’s cathedral was closed Monday after leftist protesters stormed into the world-renowned religious landmark, and church officials said it would not reopen until city authorities can guarantee security.Dozens of supporters of former leftist presidential candidate Andres Manuel López Obrador entered the building bordering the capital’s Zocalo square on Sunday, scuffling with faithful and overturning pews.

(more…)

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